METAL

Metal
Metal

Among different kinds of precious metals, there actually only two traditionally used for diamond’s jewelry. Gold and Platinum. It doesn’t mean, that silver, palladium or tungsten alloys cannot be used for your diamond engagement ring, but traditionally we use to choose gold and platinum for this matter. So, let’s start from the gold. 

Aurum
Aurum

The Gold. Gold is the most common metal, used for jewelry. It comes in different colors and purities.  Usually, you can meet 10, 14 karat or 18 karat gold stamp or “375”, “585” or “750” hallmark on the internal side of the ring. In a range of colors: white, rose, yellow and red gold. 

What is a carat?
What is a carat?

It’s easy. By American system, 24 karat is 100% pure gold (to be precise almost pure – 99.99%). Pure gold is most precious but it is too soft, to be used for jewelry. To add more durability and hardness to the metal, we need to add some alloys. Otherwise, it will be unusable. It will lose the original shape of the jewelry, under even small pressure of her tender fingers and will be easily scratched, by metal, stone or other hard items she handle. Often, we use 14 and 18 karat gold alloys. 

18 Karat
18 Karat

18 karat stamp means that alloy has 18 parts of gold and 6 parts of other metals, like palladium, zinc, silver, nickel, and copper (depends which color of gold we want to get – white, pink, yellow or red).  In another words it means, that content of the gold is 75%, so in Europe, this gold alloy will be stamped as “750”. 18K is soft but durable enough to be used in jewelry. It’s absolutely perfect for the earrings. Some people are allergic for metal alloys, like zinc, nickel etc. As you know gold is hypo allergic metal, so using 18K gold prevents of getting allergic reaction, because of low content of other metals in gold. 18K can be used for bracelets, but I would advise to use 14K for this matter. Using 18K gold is not recommended for rings, due to its softness. It can be used for rings, that she wears not for every day, like cocktail ring or special design ring, that need special dress to fit the style.

14 Karat
14 Karat

14 karat stamp means that alloy has 14 parts of gold and 8 parts of metals. Or 58.5% of gold. So, as you understand, by European standard it will be stamped “585”. 14K gold is much more durable and harder than 18K. It’s perfect for rings and bracelets, due to Its strength. It can also be used for other jewelry, like earrings, pendants, brooches etc.There are also 10, 15, 20 and 22 karat gold, but 14K and 18K are the most presented gold alloys on the market. So, we will not waste time on other. Anyway, the full information about it, you can find below, if you scroll down the page.

Platinum
Platinum

Platinum for its density and durability called the eternal metal. Natural white color of the platinum never tarnishes. Platinum has excellent resistant to oxidation. To look white, platinum doesn’t need to be plated with rhodium, like white gold, that was invented as imitation of platinum. Platinum never fades. It has chemical and acids resistant. Due to its hardness, its perfect for diamond engagement ring and as hypo allergic metal – for earrings. It doesn’t mean, that platinum is unscratchable, but it has high-level scratch resistance. The price of platinum jewelry is higher than the similar golden jewelry. Not every jeweler is eligible to work with Platinum. Hard melting metal needs special equipment, knowledge, and experience to work with this alloy. If you want to ask what is the difference between different platinum alloys? It’s easy. First of all, pay attention at the first number on the stamp Pt900 – If the first number is “900” it means, that it has 90% of Platinum and 10% of other metals in alloy. Pt950 – if the first number is “950” it means, that it has 95% of Platinum and 5% of other metals in alloy.

Pt900
Pt900

If the first number is “900” it means, that it has 90% of Platinum and 10% of other metals in alloy.

Pt950
Pt950

If the first number is “950” it means, that it has 95% of Platinum and 5% of other metals in alloy. 

Aurum. Gold.

24K – almost pure gold of 99.999%. Jewelry use: Not used in jewelry. Too soft.

18K White gold – 75% Gold + 25% alloys mixture of Palladium, Nickel, Zink.

18K Yellow gold – 75% Gold + 25% alloys mixture of Silver, Copper, Zink.

18K Rose gold - 75% Gold + 25% alloys mixture of Copper, Silver.

18K Red gold – 75% Gold + 25% Copper.

14K White gold – 58.5% gold + 41.5% alloys mixture Palladium, Nickel, Zink.

14K Yellow gold – 58.5% gold + 41.5% alloys mixture Silver, Copper, Zink.

14K Rose gold - 58.5% gold + 41.5% alloys mixture of Copper, Silver.

14K Red gold - 58.5% gold + 41.5% Copper.

10K White gold – 41.5% gold + 58.5% alloys mixture Palladium, Nickel, Zinc.

10K Yellow gold – 41.5% gold + 58.5% alloys mixture Silver, Copper, Zink.

10K Rose gold - 41.5% gold + 58.5% alloys mixture of Copper, Silver.

10K Red gold - 41.5% gold + 58.5% Copper.

There are also very rare gold alloys: 22K – 91.6% gold 21K – 87.5% gold 20K – 83.3% gold 15K – 62.5% gold

Platinum

Pt950/Ru – 95% platinum +5% Ruthenium. H:  Hardest platinum alloy. Tint: Gray.

Pt950/Co – 95% platinum + 5% Cobalt. H: Softest platinum alloy. Tint: Dark gray.

Pt950/Ir – 95% platinum + 5% Iridium. H: Medium hardness alloy. Tint: Whitest.

Pt900/Ir – 90% platinum + 5% Iridium. H: Hard alloy. Tint: White.

Which metal to choose
Which metal to choose

Gold 18 karat – soft, anti-allergic metal. Perfect for earrings and pendants, cocktail rings, brooches. Not recommended for engagement rings, wedding bands, cufflinks, and bracelets. Gold 14 karat – Perfect for engagement rings, wedding bands, pendants, cufflinks, and bracelets. Can be used for earrings, but this alloy is less anti-allergic than 18 karat. Platinum – perfect for engagement rings, wedding bands, bracelets, earrings, pendants, cufflinks, and brooches, due to its durability, hardness and anti-allergic properties. 

So, I hope these small secrets will help you make the right choice.